Travel Guide to Peru

Peru’s incredible landscapes, delicious gastronomy, and pre-Columbian history entice travelers around the world. From the snowcapped peaks of the Andes and the lush Amazon Rainforest to Inca ruins and Spanish colonial mansions, Peru beckons with the allure of the ancient and mysterious. The country is home to some of the most iconic sites in South America: the legendary ruins of Machu Picchu, the highest navigable lake in the world (Lake Titicaca), one of the world’s deepest canyons (Colca Canyon), the Nazca Lines, and the Amazon rain forest. But whether you want to explore these famous sites or venture off the beaten track, any holiday to Peru offers dramatic scenery, rich culture, and world-class cuisine. Peru is also home to a string of luxury hotels and internationally celebrated restaurants, attracting discerning travelers from all over the world.

Get the most out of your (luxury) trip to Peru with my travel guide. Find out more about:

• Best time to visit
• Entry requirements
• How to get there
• Getting around
• Recommended tour operators
• Inspiration, highlights, & travel tips
• Suggested itineraries
• Recommended luxury hotels (+ reviews)

TRAVEL GUIDE TO PERU: BEST TIME TO VISIT

Visitors will notice more rain and clouds between November and April, with the wettest months being January and February. Travel at this time does offer the advantage of fewer visitors, greener scenery, and some lower rates for flights and hotels. However, the rains can also make hiking and exploring more difficult (with often obscured views at Machu Picchu). Landslides, disrupted train schedules, flight delays and road closures can also occur during rainy spells, which can disrupt your travel plans.

The Amazon

Like the Andes, the Amazon has two well-defined seasons: the rainy season (November – March) with abundant precipitation, and the low-rainfall season (April – October), ideal for visiting. The humidity is very high throughout the year.  The rainy season in the Amazon should not deter you from visiting — the flora and fauna will still be abundant and there are always breaks in showers.

The Coast

The Peruvian capital Lima has its own micro-climate. Nine months of the year, Lima is covered with a blanket of dense fog as the moisture makes its way inland from the ocean to the rain forests. This can include morning fog almost daily, and week-long stretches of overcast skies, mainly on the hilltops or at high altitude. In summer, there is little fog.

TRAVEL GUIDE TO PERU: ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

Please keep in mind that while a visa is not required, you must:

• Hold a passport valid at least six months on entry with one blank visa page
• Hold proof of onward/return flights
• Hold proof of sufficient funds relative to your intended length of stay
• Hold documents showing proof of purpose of trip
• Hold all documents required for the next destination
• Confirm with your airline that boarding will be permitted without a visa

Please note this information serves as a guide only. Travelers should check for visa requirements pertaining to their citizenship, as entry requirements can vary.

Make sure you read my 10 tips to plan a worry-free trip.

TRAVEL GUIDE TO PERU: HOW TO GET THERE

Travelers typically arrive in Peru by flying into the capital Lima and then take other forms of transportation – shuttles or domestic flights, for example – to other cities (Cusco, Arequipa). Nearly all flights from North & South America, Asia and Europe land at Lima’s Jorge Chávez International Airport, a fairly modern airport with a variety of services, including ATMs, currency exchange, banks, post office, restaurants, and duty-free shops. Click here for a list of airlines that offer direct flights to San Jose.

You can also enter Peru by land (via bus or car) via one of the 10 border crossings that Peru shares with the surrounding countries of Chile, Bolivia, Ecuador, Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay, and Uruguay. The crossings are open year-round and the process is fairly straightforward as long as you are in the possession of the necessary entry documents.

TRAVEL GUIDE TO PERU: HOW TO GET AROUND

Getting around Peru is fairly safe, comfortable and easy, but it has its challenges and may consume a lot of tume.

• Domestic flights  in Peru are quite affordable and can help save time  (I recommend to take flights instead of bus journeys wherever possible). Most internal flights in Peru only take 1 hour. There are 200 airports (including airfields and airports), with 5 international and 18 domestic terminals. The main airports are located in Lima, Cusco, Puno, Arequipa, Iquitos and Trujillo. The main domestic airlines in Peru are LATAM, Star Perú, and Sky Airline.
• The privatized rail system run by PeruRail has chartered tourist train services between Cusco & Aguas Calientes (gateway to Machu Picchu), Cusco & Puno and Puno & Arequipa.  Tickets are available from PeruRail or InkaRail. You can choose between normal trains and panorama window trains that offer a more comfortable experience with a show on board. On top of this, PeruRail also operates three luxury trains (with come with onboard shows, dinners and more):
  • The legendary Belmond Hiram Bingham train, which carries the name of the American explorer who discovered Machu Picchu again, offers a luxurious adventure that combines fine dining, great service, and breathtaking views as you travel through Peru’s fascinating landscapes from Cusco to Machu Picchu.
  • Over the course of two days and two nights, the Belmond Andean Explorer’s beautiful itinerary passes through some of Peru’s most breathtaking landscapes, namely Cusco, Puno (Lake Titicaca) and Arequipa. You’ll travel across the impressive Andean mountains, through snow-capped peaks, historic sites, and colorful valleys.
  • The Titicaca Train – another luxury train operated by Peru Rail – traverse the scenic route from Cusco to Puno in approximately 10 hours, embracing panoramic views of the Altiplano.
• Bus travel is very popular in Peru, and you can usually buy your tickets the day before or even the day of travel. The main roads in Peru are in very good condition, monitored by specialized police, and have emergency services for quick assistance. Major companies run on schedule and often have both daytime and overnight options.  There is a wide variety of buses that connect almost all destinations in the country and offer differentiated services:
  • Local buses are very popular among Peruvians, so they’re always crammed full and there’s no reserved seating. They also make a lot of stops along the way, so they are considerably slower than the express buses.
  • Express buses are more comfortable: they are an air-conditioned , there’s a toilet on board and snacks (tea, coffee, crackers) are served during the trip.
  • Royal Class overnight buses are the most luxurious option when it comes to bus travel and they come with reclining chairs for enhanced sleep comfort.
• The Peruvian Amazon is a special part of South America’s largest jungle and the only way to access most of it is by boat. You can fly into a few towns and most travelers start their trip to the jungle by flying to either Iquitos or Puerto Maldonado. From there, all travel will be by boat on tributaries of the Amazon River. There are many local and international companies that organize jungle tours and visits to lodges.
• If a bus or plane sounds too public for you or you don’t find a time schedule that fits your itinerary, it also possible to book private transfers with a chauffeur-driven car via most hotels at often reasonable prices.

Before you buy a plane ticket, consider reading my tips & tricks for buying the cheapest plane ticket.

TRAVEL GUIDE TO PERU: RECOMMENDED TOUR OPERATORS

Although it’s perfectly possible to plan and organize a trip to Peru on your own, some  discerning travelers may prefer to book (part of) their trip in Peru through a travel company. The latter will take care of all the transfers, activities and hotels. I highly recommend the following luxury travel companies in Peru:

•  Andean is a Peruvian luxury travel company who reinvents the art of travel in the country by showcasing the true essence of Peru through inspiring destinations, innovative accommodations, and authentic experiences. As an industry pioneer in the design and development of owner-managed hotels and carefree travel, Andean takes guests on journeys from the historic vibrancy of the city to the timeless serenity of Peru’s unspoiled side. Each experience is complemented by seamless serendipity, remarkable local cuisine, nourishment for the soul, and an understated elegance that is uniquely Peruvian. Andean manages 5 hotels hotels, offering a neat circuit known as the Southern Peru Travesia, which includes Lima, Arequipa, the Colca Canyona and Lake Titicaca.
• Explora is one of the most luxurious hotel brands in South America, managing a collection of lodges focused on deep exploration of remote regions. Explora’s lodges are designed to offer comfort while connecting guests to some of the continent’s most awe-inspiring landscapes. Each property emphasizes sustainable practices and provides guided explorations, allowing travelers to immerse themselves in the natural and cultural richness of the area. Explora has a limited footprint in Peru and operates just one lodge in the Sacred Valley (the  gateway to Machu Picchu). When touring the entire country, consider combining Andean for the Southern Peru Travesia and Explora for the Sacred Valley.
• The Belmond Hotel Group – fomerly known as Orient Express until its rebranding in 2014 – operates several hotels and trains and offers the most complete tour of Peru (with properties in Lima, the Colca Canyon, Cusco, Sacred Valley and the only lodge near Machu Picchu). In 2018, Belmond – which ranks among the most exclusive hotel brands in the world – was acquired by LVMH (‘Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy’), the owner of brands like Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton and Fendi. With Belmond, you can stay in timeless hotels in Venice, Rio and St. Petersburg, embrace the spirit of adventure at Machu Picchu or Angkor Wat, glide along the rails through the Swiss Alps, soar across the Andes, or explore the mystifying rivers of Myanmar.
• When traveling to the Peruvian Amazon, I highly recommend Aqua Expeditions, which offers luxury Amazon River cruises, offering 3, 4 and 7 night river cruises aboard the luxury Aria Amazon & Aqua Nera.
• If you consider doing the Inca trek to Machu Picchu, I highly recommend Evolutions Trek Peru. This Cusco-based company focusses on fair trade tourism, empowering women, ethical traveling, and sustainable and eco-friendly practices. Evolution Trek Peru offers several activities and hikes in the Sacred Valley, including the Inca Trail, with varying durations and levels of comfort, including luxury camping trips.

TRAVEL GUIDE TO PERU: INSPIRATION, HIGHLIGHTS & TRAVEL TIPS

There are many reasons why Peru should be on your bucket list:

• Peru is a cultural enthusiast’s dream. Home to the iconic Incan remnants of Machu Picchu, historic Cusco and the glorious Sacred Valley, as well as the mystical Nazca Lines, Peru is a veritable nirvana for cultural and history aficionados. What’s more, this multicultural country, rich in tradition, too serves up a wide mix of merriments and sacred religious events, with music and dance playing an integral role, celebrating over 3 000 festivals each year. Highlights on the calendar include Corpus Christi and Qoyllur Riti.
• Peru is a nature lover’s paradise. Unparalleled with its biodiversity and natural wonders, plus its medley of landscapes and a vast array of bird and wildlife, not to mention hectares of protected parks and reserves, outdoor fanatics are spoilt for choice, with fantastic explorations of the emerald jungles of the Amazon, journeys to the world’s second deepest canyon, Colca, and visits to ‘the birthplace of the sun’, Lake Titicaca, featuring as unmissable highlights. In the Peruvian Amazon and Andes alone, there is no fewer than 13 monkey species, 1 000 bird species, 200 mammal species as well as 4 000 vibrant butterfly species. Turquoise lagoons, glaciers, and mystical archaeological ruins complete Peru’s enchanting natural offering.
• Peru is a hot post for foodies. Serving five stars on the global gastronomy stage, epicureans flock to Peru’s cosmopolitan Lima, renowned as South America’s food capital, to immerse themselves in the capital city’s grand colonial architecture, whilst taunting their taste buds with mouth-watering dishes, influenced by local, Spanish, African and Asian flavours. A visit is not complete without tasting Peru’s signature plate, the classic ceviche. An elegant cured raw fish dish traditionally served cold, a true celebration of the Pacific Ocean with every bite, it’s no surprise this is Peru’s most popular delicacy.
• Peru is also known as an incredible adventure sports destination, enjoy a huge selection of activities ranging from hiking, canopy treks, mountain biking and horseback riding trails, to the more edgy options of whitewater rafting, bungee jumping, zip-lining and rock climbing. Hop on a motorised quad-bike, kayak or paddle-board or go catch-and-release fishing in the Northern Amazon.

The following, detailed articles may also inspire you and help you plan your holiday to Peru:

• Top 10 best things to see & do in Peru
• Top 10 best luxury hotels & lodges in Peru
• Travel guide to Machu Picchu: everything you need to know
• Tips & tricks for getting the best deal at a luxury hotel
• Tips & tricks for buying the cheapest plane ticket

TRAVEL GUIDE TO PERU: SUGGESTED ITINERARIES 

It’s impossible to suggest one itinerary for Peru in this travel guide, but I hereby share with you a schedule based on my own holiday in Peru. Because of the amount of effort involved in getting around in Peru and the number of destinations worth visiting, it is recommended that travelers set aside  two weeks for their Peru holiday.

• Day 1 & 2: arrival in Lima & explore the city (try to book a table at Central, one of the world’s best restaurants).
  • Recommended Hotel: Fausto, Belmond Miraflores
• Day 2 & 3: take a flight to Arequipa and explore the city
  • Recommended hotel: Cirqa
• Day 4 & 5: explore the Colca Canyon
  • Recommended hotel: Puqio, Belmond Las Casitas
• Day 6 & 7: Visit Lake Titicaca
  • Recommended hotel: Titilaca
• Day 8 & 9: take the train or fly to Cusco & explore the city
  • Recommended hotel: Belmond Palacio Nazarenas
• Day 10, 11, 12 & 13: explore the Sacred Valley (+ day visit to Machu Picchu)
  • Recommended hotel: Explora Valle Sagrado
• Day 14: flight back home (with departure from Cusco)

Some remarks:

• If you are short on time, I would limit your stay to Lima and Arequipa to one night each (but make sure to arrive in Arequipa in the morning so you have enough time to explore the city).
• When you book the Southern Peru Travesia with Andean, transfers between Arequipa, the Colca Canyon and Lake Titicaca will be by private van (included in the rate). When you book via Belmond, the transfer between Arequipa, Laka Titicaca and Cusco will be by van or luxury train (not included in the rate).
• Most hotels in Peru’s Sacred Valley offer day trips to Machu Picchu. However, keep in mind that a day trip to Machu Picchu from a Sacred Valley Hotel takes a lot of  travel time. Between the car ride from the hotel to Ollantaytambo train station, the train ride to Aguas Calientes and the bus ride to the legendary citadel at the end, it’s at least 4 hours each way (and that excludes waiting lines for the busses). If you instead stay in Agua Calientes (or if you really want to splurge, at the Belmond property at the entrance to Machu Picchu), you could visit Machu Picchu early morning (before all the crowds arrive by train) or late afternoon, and break up the travel. In this scenario, I would suggest to stay only 3 nights in the Sacred Valley, followed by 2 nights around Machu Picchu.
• If you have more time, you could consider doing the Inca trek to Machu Picchu. The Inca Trail is one the bucket list of many travelers, not only for the sense of achievement but also because it immerses you in stunning Andean landscapes from cloud forest to rainforest and passes a handful of other Inca ruins. The 43 km (27 mi) hike begins in Chillca, just west of Ollantaytambo, and takes three to four days, camping every night. A maximum of 500 permits are issued for the Inca Trail each day, over half of which are taken up by guides, and the porters who lug baggage, as well as tents, food and even tables and benches, up some incredibly steep paths. Note that the Inca Trail leading to Machu Picchu is closed for the entire month of February every year for maintenance and that the 500 daily permits can sell out months in advance, especially for the peak months of July and August.
• If you have more time, you should also consider visiting the Peruvian Amazon. With daily direct flights to and from the Peruvian capital of Lima, guests can easily get to Iquitos, the gateway to the Amazon in Peru and starting point of luxury cruises on the Amazon River. Fun fact: Iquitos is the largest inland port in the world only accessible by river and air.

TRAVEL GUIDE TOPERU: RECOMMENDED HOTELS (+ REVIEWS)

I recommend to visit my top 10 list of the most fabulous hotels in Peru if you are eager to know how I rank Peru’s top hotels, based my own experience.

Below, you find my detailed reviews of lodges in Peru (with pros, cons, and tips to save money per hotel).

• Review: Titilaka Lodge (Lake Titicaca, Peru)
• Review: Puqio Hotel (Colca Canyon, Peru)
• Review: Cirqa, a Relais & Châteaux Hotel, Arequipa (Peru)
• Review: Explora Valle Sagrado, Sacred Valley (Peru)

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